I will first post the "ideal" housing requirements, followed by *my* setup and reasoning behind the design. Anything in this color is my tegu's personal setup. Once again, these are just guidelines and what works for some may not work for others.
Hatchling Housing
In order to create a proper ambient gradient, a 40-gallon breeder terrarium/aquarium (with lid) is preferred; a 40-gallon breeder allows on side of the vivarium to stay hot on one side, while gradually decreasing in temperature as you move towards the "cool" side. This enclosure should also last until your tegu is a yearling, allowing the permanent adult enclosure to follow after.
A 20-gallon long could suffice for a short period, though a dimmer for the heat source may be required to keep the temperatures appropriate. Also, note that tegu hatchlings can grow significantly in short periods of time, therefore a 20-gallon may only last a couple of months. At this point, either an upgrade to a 40-gallon will be required, or the permanent enclosure should be built. Please note that a dimmer can not be used with a UVB bulb.
General rule is do not use a 10 gallon enclosure, as it can be detrimental to your tegu's health. It is very difficult to setup a proper gradient in a 10-gallon (not impossible, but difficult and tedious) and, despite the animal possibly "fitting" inside of it, this can lead to severe burns and other complications.
Yearling Housing +
The MINIMUM recommendation for an adult is an enclosure measuring 6 ft x 3 ft x 3 ft (~ 2 m x 1 m x 1 m). An enclosure measuring 8" x 4" x 3-4" is preferred. While I do intend to free-roam my tegu, an enclosure will still be used to contain the tegu when necessary. Please do research before attempting to allow your tegu run loose around your home and understand there are risks associated.
General Housing
- Enclosure: if you are using a screen top, use plastic wrap, aluminum foil, or a safe material to cover the screen while still allowing some ventilation. This will help prevent humidity from escaping.
- My tegu hatchling is housed in an Exo-Terra Large/Wide front opening terrarium (90 x 45 x 45 cm) - equivalent of a 40-gallon breeder. I placed Press-and-Seal on the entire screen top. Initially, I debated whether to get a front-opening enclosure, or top-opening enclosure as that is the type of enclosure I was most familiar with from housing snakes. I am now relieved that I went with the front-opening enclosure as it has made my life easier: cleaning is much more simple, I have easy access to my tegu anywhere in the enclosure, and it will reduce the work to remove the tegu once she is larger.
- Substrate: aspen shavings, eucalyptus mulch, loose coconut fiber, organic top soil (without additives), or PURE cypress mulch. Essentially, do not use any substrate that has additives and it is best to avoid sand.
- Personally, I use brazilian slate tiles as the base for my terrarium. I have found them easy to clean and it allows me to monitor my young tegu's bowel movements, as well as collect samples readily when fecals are needed. Some people instead use paper towels, which is also a good alternative. Instead of a terrarium full of substrate, I provide a digging box - a box filled with Eco Earth loose coconut fiber substrate where my tegu can dig if desired. I mist the box daily; with this, my enclosure has no issues maintaining adequate humidity.
- Thermometer/Humidity Gauge: the thermometer should be able to read TWO different temperatures at different locations. This will allow you to read the temperature on both the cool side and the hot side, and monitor humidity levels. Correct humidity levels are crucial for promoting healthy sheds.
- I use the Acu-rite Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer with probe. I place the actual unit on the cool side (the actual unit will measure the temperature on the cool side with), and place the probe on the basking side (the probe will measure the temperature on the hot side). There is a setting on the device to display the "indoor" temperature (cool side), the "outdoor" temperature (hot side), and the humidity all simultaneously. You can purchase this thermometer online, or at a Walmart.
- UVB Lighting: Although some people believe vitamin D3 supplementation is adequate, studies have shown that UVB is much more effective at raising plasma concentrations of 25(OH)D3. See abstract here. On the other hand, another study using green iguanas indicates vitamin D3 supplements may be the most effective method for meeting D3 needs for optimal growth. It appears the general consensus among tegu owners is UVB lighting. Here are two highly recommended bulbs (these bulbs should be replaced once UV output is inadequate - here is a discussion regarding UV lighting, as well as an informative website - you can use a Solarmeter to check UV levels): Zoo Med Powersun Bulb 100w or Zoo Med Reptisun 10 UVB. Coil bulbs should be avoided.
- My personal opinion is that UVb lighting is a necessity. I am currently using the Zoo Med Powersun, suspended approximately 30 cm from the terrarium floor. This keeps the basking area at the appropriate temperature and UVb exposure for my tegu.
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Basking temperatures should be maintained at 35 C to 43 C (95F – 110F), although there are many people that have used higher basking temperatures successfully (no higher than 120F). The cool side should be within the range of 24 C to 30 C (75 F – 85 F). Humidity should be maintained between 60 and 80%.
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- Heating Source: A CHE (ceramic heat emitter) may be necessary to maintain adequate temperatures on the "cool side," depending on the ambient temperature of your home or the room the tegu's enclosure is kept in; once again, a dimmer may be necessary. If for some reason an undertank heater is used, which is not usually recommended, use a thermostat to regulate the temperature of the heat pad.
- My home stays at approximately 22 C (72 F). With this temperature, my enclosure is able to maintain a "cool side" temperature of roughly 28 C while the UVB lamp is on, dropping to 24 C at night. Therefore, an additional heat source has not been required. I have used both CHEs and UTHs for my snakes with success. The key is to regulate temperatures via dimmers and thermostats!
- Temperature Gun: A temperature gun is a good investment. This allows your to check the temperature of various surfaces, such as the basking spot or cool end of the terrarium. It can also be used to check the external temperature of foods when thawing out frozen meals for tegus.
- I use the Zoo Med ReptiTemp Digital Infrared Thermometer (found online or at Petsmart & Petco). Mostly, it is used to ensure the temperature of the tile located in the basking area is not too hot.
- Accessories: A food dish, water dish, and hides are necessary. Replace water on a daily basis and do not allow food to sit in the enclosure over night.
- I use a shallow dish for both food and water; this allows my tegu to easily access either one. Most people bury their water dish in their substrate in order to create an "underground pool" effect. Because I do not use substrate (I use tile), I use a shallow dish to make it easier to reach. The food dish is a saucer or plate.
- In addition to the dig box, I have one hide on the cool end of the enclosure. I was previously told by multiple people that if a hide is kept on the warm side, a tegu is much more reluctant to move, which results in more difficulty interacting with your tegu. I am not 100% of the validity of the statement, but my tegu appears content with one hide on the cooler side. During the night, a gradient temperature is non-existent, as the terrarium cools to around 24 C throughout, therefore, at this point it does not matter which side the hide is located.
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